"The Journal of William R. Gorgas of Allen Township in the County of Cumberland and State of Pennsylvania In the 24th Year of His Age"

On May 27 in 1830 twenty-four-year-old William Gorgas set off from Mechanicsburg, Pennsylvania, on a trip with two companions, Christian H. Bauman and John Fahnestock, through New Jersey to New York City, up the Hudson River to Albany, from Albany, by way of the Erie Canal, to Buffalo and Niagara Falls, then to Cleveland and Cincinnati and through Ohio to arrive back in Cumberland County on August 25. The three traveled by just about all the methods available at the time–stagecoach, steamboat, canal-barge, horseback, and afoot. The trip lasted altogether "thirteen weeks within a day," and the distance traveled totaled 2,036 miles. Young Gorgas faithfully kept a journal, which we are printing here for the first time.

The purpose of the trip is not explicit, but he did record throughout the quality of the land, its crops, and its cost per acre, and the three travelers frequently visited former residents from Pennsylvania which resulted in such judgments as "they have bettered themselves" and "the farm is not as prosperous as . . . . ," so it seems likely that the trip was in part to scout out agricultural possibilities and to establish real estate values.

William Gorgas was born in 1806. He was named after his ancestor, William Rittenhouse, who in 1690 established the first paper mill in America on the banks of the Wissahickow River in Philadelphia. He grew up on his father’s farm in Lower Allen Township, the "well known Gorgas Homestead," where his father, Solomon, ran the farm and a general store that his son eventually took over. William had no formal schooling, and an obituary says he was "no debater," but he went on six years after the trip recorded here to be elected as a Democrat to serve in the Lower House of the State Legislature. He was twice reelected to serve in the House, and in 1841 he was elected to serve one term in the State Senate. Apparently well established by 1840, he married Elizabeth Hummel of Harrisburg; in succeeding years the couple had eight children; they moved to Harrisburg in 1877 or 1878. William was clearly a "solid citizen," thoroughly engaged in the commercial life of the city. In 1845 he was a founder and director of the banking firm of Merkle, Mumma and Company (eventually the First National Bank of Mechanicsburg). By the time of his death at 87, he had served as director of the Harrisburg Bridge Company, the Harrisburg Market Company, the Harrisburg City Passenger Rail Company, and had been President of the Harrisburg Burial Case Company and of the Allen and East Petennsboro Fire Insurance Company. He was a member of the Seventh Day Adventists’ Congregation. He died on December 7 in 1892, survived by his wife and five of their children.

The Journal of the trip was kept in two notebooks, each measuring 4" by 6", with board covers, one plain, one marbleized, both with leather spines. This printed version of the Journal follows a typescript made by Jean Twitchell whose husband, Henry Twitchell, was the great grandson of William Gorgas. Spelling, punctuation, and sentence structure have been left intact. The manuscript is on the whole continuous; paragraphs have been added at intervals to facilitate reading. Questionable words have been followed by a question mark within brackets: [?]. Undecipherable words or phrases have been indicated by spaces and a question mark inside square brackets, thus: [____?____]. Occasionally a space has been left blank in the original, presumably to fill in later, for instance with population figures, and is indicated by a line: . The numbers in square brackets indicate the page numbers in the manuscript. We have divided the manuscript into three parts: the first, which takes the travelers to Albany, appears in this issue. The next issue will include the remainder of the first of the two notebooks; it ends with the arrival at the Sanduski Swamp in Ohio. The second notebook, which will appear in the third issue of HVRR, will bring the travelers back to their starting place in Cumberland County on August 25.

Book I

May 27 to June 18, 1830

Mechanicsburg — Trenton — Princeton — New Brunswick — New York City — The Hudson River - Albany

[1] After taking my leave of my friends and connections left home in company of Christian Bauman of Mechanicsburg the 27th day of May A.D. 1830. We traveled through New Cumberland and crossed the Susquehanna at New Market, came on to Mr. Kirk’s in Highspire; took dinner, and at the hour of 12 of the clock we left for Middletown and arrived at Mr. John’s tavern at 2 o’clock, when we met our friend [2] John Fahnestock and after taking a view of the canal and looking at the storehouses and the boats loading and unloading wherewith we were somewhat delighted, we three in company left in tolerable spirits and traveled along the toe path of the canal which is partly finished. The country along the river is in general good. We arrived at Wm. Blatenberger’s in Bainbridge about half past 6 of the clock in the evening. [3] He is a gentleman of agreeable manner and obliging disposition. The day’s travel is 18 miles.

The 28th we left Bainbridge about 4 of the morning and traveled along slowly viewing the fine places and elegant mansion houses, (The grain & corn & oats look very well) until we came to Mr. Longnecker’s about 4 miles from B. and there called to see them, and the good woman desired us to take breakfast with them, which was very desirable to us, as our appetites were good. [4] We left about 7 o’clock and came to Marietta and stopped at Mr. Grabilly (Bowman’s uncle) who treated us with good currant wine and spunge cake. From thence we came to Wm. Boil’s tavern & I took a little milk and brown bread which cheered us a little. Left at 1/4 past eleven and traveled on foot to Kochanour’s tavern, took dinner and started to tramp at 2 o’clock, and arrived at Lancaster pretty much fatigued at about 5 of the clock. [5] Called to see Dr. D. Fahnestock and found them all well, and left at 6 and traveled to see Mr. Wm. Diller, with whom we lodged all night.

Left Saturday the 29th at about 5 and walked about two miles, and the Wilmington stage overtook us, in which we took a seat and came to Mr. Shertz tavern on the Westchester Road where we took breakfast at 8 and immediately resumed our seat till we came opposite to Mr. Slaymaker tavern where we left the stage and took it a foot to Mr. Bitzer’s near Pechway Creek at 11 AM where we were kindly received and found them in health. [6] The day’s travel was 18 miles. Sunday the 30th the forenoon was rainy and therefore we remained at Mr. Bitzer’s until 11 of the clock from whence we went to Mrs- Stauffer’s in company of one of her daughters & two sons and found the family enjoying good health, and at one of the clock we took dinner and after it commenced raining and we contented ourselves by a mutual and cheerful conversation so that the day past swiftly. [7] When evening came we concluded to stay and leave early in the morning.

Monday 31st we rose at 4 of the clock and after some persuasion we agreed to remain until after breakfast, after which we bid them farewell and came on to Bitzer’s in company of J. Stauffer, where we remained until after 7, when we bid them adieu and traveled on foot to the Mount Vernon Inn about [?] miles where John got some milk to refresh him. [8] Left at past 10 and traveled on slowly through to Mr. Thornburgh’s where we took dinner, after which we were very much refreshed, and as usual rested a little, and left at 1/2 past 1 of the clock and walked along slowly viewing the grain which we found not to be as good as in Lancaster & Cumberland. The land appears not to be as strong and rich. The corn looks poor west of this and the grain also. After moving along for some miles I again found it to change, the land grew better, [9] particularly in the neighborhood of Dowingstown, a place containing about 50 houses, but at the present is but little improving. Two miles west of it we stopped with Mr. Milleson and refreshed ourselves by taking a little soda water and wine. He appears to be an obliging man. After which we went to Mr. Hall’s tavern two miles east of Dowingstown and agreed to remain there all night. The day’s travel 23 miles. After bathing our feet in warm water and ashes we retired.

June

[10] At four in the morning and continued our travel on foot. The landlord is an obliging man and one who has traveled considerably in his time; accommodations good (here I almost forgot to state we met with some of Rupp’s relations). Left this at 1/2 past four this morning being the 1st Casper Fahnestock’s; found him and Lady well with a young son of 18 months. Breakfast about 7 and left at 9 of the clock. Came to Uncle Charles Fahnestock [11] at the Warren (where I received intelligence of the death of my Uncle Daniel Fahnestock, which caused a serious reflection of this uncertain and transitory life, knowing that sooner or later I would have the same change to make), where we took dinner, at which time it commenced raining, and continued cloudy and misty all day. At 1/2 past 4 we bid Uncle’s people farewell and traveled on slowly to Mr. H. Siters tavern 6 miles east, a spacious and extensive building [12] in Sciterville, where we took up lodging for the night (the day’s travel only 14 miles).

Rose at four in the morning and immediately left travelled afoot to Mr. Millers Tavern situated in the point of the Old Lancaster turnpike roads in Delaware County where we stopped for breakfast accomodation good, the land looks well, kind of a slate, have to lime it for to keep it up, left this 1/4 before eight and travelled on til we came to Ashmons [?] Manufactory of knifes and forks, cutting files etc where we had the curiosity of seeing how files were made, which neither of us had the pleasure of seeing before. Thence travelled on till we came East of Monroe village where we set down on an old log in the wood to rest and where I wrote the foregoing–Left the old log at half past ten and travelled on as usual for the city where we arrived at 12 of the clock at Bushy’s inn where we took dinner. 16 mi. John not being satisfield with the fare, we agreed to go & see Cousin Harris Fahn & Mr. Allen, from which [14] after walking about from place to place we agreed to hunt my relations Mr. Gorgas which we readily found in Callowhill street No 185 where we were kindly received and found them all well, remained there this night.

On Thursday morning June the 3rd rose at 4, John and I walked up above Coats [____?____] street and came down along the wharfs and Front street, arrived at my friends at about 1/2 past six when we sat down to breakfast, after which, Uncle (by which I shall hereafter distinguish him) [15] proposed to take a walk to Fair Mount, which readily accepted, after getting there he showed us all the water works and dam, after which we went up at least 120 steps to the Reservoir. There are at the present three and a fourth commenced which in all probability be finished this summer–After we sent to see Mr. [____?____] (a private gentleman’s) garden but the keeper of the gate would not suffer us to go in as we had no ticket, and therefore left and came on [16] to the Pagoda a public garden where we got some porter after which we tried to get to the Pagoda without climbing as it is a puzzling garden and is rather difficult to get in, and out the same but with some difficulty we got in and went to the top from which we had a fine view of the city, left this and went to Mr. Browns garden where we saw a variety of fruit and grape, after which we went to see a [____?____] factory for grinding glass which was a great [17] curiosity to me, as I never before knew that flowers were ground on–from thence we came past the house of Refuge a fine building for young thieves, where they can learn trades & from which we came on to Uncles were they were just ready for dinner, and we partook and then as before walked as usual through the city and returned to Uncles suppose we walked 12 miles.

On Friday morning rose at 4 of the clock and found raining therefore we could not enjoy ourselves so well as might be expected. [18] On Saturday 5th June we left Chestnut street wharf at 6 of the clock in the steamboat Trenton, Captain Jenkins and sailed on to Burlington in New Jersey 18 miles from Philadelphia–This place contains about ________ inhabitants situated on the Delaware and presents a handsome appearance, in front which is a street with a beautiful sloping in front and green–Below this place 1 mile on the Pennsylvania shore is a handsome county seat belonging to Captain Biddle of the navy, After [19] leaving some passengers out we crossed to Bristol nearly oposite were some more left. This is an old town by appearance and is rather on the not improving scarcely any–A stage coach goes hence to Easton every day on the arrival of the steamboat. And from thence we came on to the landing place were the Union line of steamboats runs to N.Y. [____?____] horse stages left us–in all I suppose there must have been more than 100 passengers on board the steamboat–From this we came to Bordentown [20] 28 miles from Philadelphia, stands on a high and steep sand bank, through which a road is cut to the water. There we left the steamboat and took the stage for Trenton–Just north of this village is the house of Joseph Buonaparte, the Count de [____?____], once being of Spain and a little west his chapel and a high steeple, from which it commands a beautiful sight of the river–The land between this and Philadelphia appears sandy and poor but on the Pennsylvania [21] shore from Bordentown to Trenton the land is sandy and midling poor, but good for peach orchards. There is one gentleman that got $1000 for his peaches upon the trees and this year has 5000 trees bearing, besides a young orchard. Arrived at Trenton at 12 of the clock and stoped at N. Bashford Boarding house or tavern. This is a place of considerable size population with a great number of stores and a good deal of business.

The bridge over D.[the Delaware River ?] has five arches, and is a handsome structure, built on a different plan to Harrisburg. [22] The State Prison is situated a little south of the town on rising ground. The State Capitol is situated nearly on the banks of the D. in the Western part of town. Left this about 7 of the clock and travelled on a foot through a wet and sandy part of the country little swampy in places, the grain in general is poor–houses and barns small–We came on to Princeton which is 10 miles. A place beautifully situated on an elevated ridge of land which on several sides rises [23] with along and easy slope, and commands a view of considerable extent, from this we came to Kingston a small town situated 2 miles north of Princeton containing about 150 inhabitants were we stoped with Mr. Withington the stage office took supper and being a little fatigued we shortly after retired and slept well. The days travel was 47 miles.

On Sunday 6th June we rose at 5 in the morning and the weather inclined for rain. Left at 1/2 before 6 and travelled on foot through a sandy and rather [24] unfruitful county to Mr. Stouts tavern were we called for some milk for our breakfast, and eat hearty. Left this at 8 and found that the soil was getting a little stronger grain looked better and arrived at New Brunswick City. Host Thomas F Sargents tavern about 1 of the clock. Travelled 13 miles–At this city place the steamboats start for New York. The stage coaches drive through a part of the city to the steamboat wharf. The forenoon line stops at the hotel for the night. [25] The view is pretty from the hill above, whence the public buildings appear to good advantage, in particular Rutger’s Theological Seminary , which is under the Synod of the Dutch Reformed Church. In the spring of 1777, Washington advanced from near Morristown to Middlebrook where he entrenched himself on the heights in full view of New Brunswick, where the remains of the fort can yet be seen it was built in a circular form in diamiter about 100 feet. The British tried various stratagems to decoy him from this commanding [26] position and once succeeded; but discovering their intentions to surround him, he quickly regained it and they were soon after obliged to give up all hopes of penetrating in this direction, and devoted their attention to cooperating with General Burgoyne who was coming down towards Albany.

On Monday the 7th rose 1/2 past 4 and took a short walk as it had the appearance of rain. After breakfast we walked round to see the business and found that there was considerable done particularly in Burnet street, but this place is [27] said to be on the decline. Sloops & schooners can come here when the tide is up. Albany street the handsomest in town but not much business done . The bridge over the Raritan is opposite to this street, and the City Hotel is in it–On Monday the 7th at 2 of the clock we got on the steamboat Swan Captain ________ and passed down the raritan river well loaded with passengers suppose 200. Came 7 miles where [____?____] river empties into raritan some distance below the canal connects the Raritan [28] with the South River on the banks of which is situated a small town called Washington in N. Jersey all along the Raritan River is an uninterrupted plane of called the salt meadow I suppose several thousands of acres of no manner of use excepting for pasture, the banks are quite low–About 13 miles below N. Brunswick is Pert Amboy a small place situated on the bank–to the right of which is Staten Island, a large and elevated tract of land but is said to have but few [29] inhabitants for its size. To the left before as you enter N. York bay can be seen at a distance the Jersey City population ________

On entering New York Bay, Fort Lafayette is seen in the narrows, between Staten and Long Island which is the passage to the sea. The City presents a close mass of houses with Castle Williams on Governor’s Island, seen near it on the right, and Ellis and Bedlow’s Island on the left with their fortifications. On approaching, the prominent objects are the tall pyramidal [30] steeple of Trinity Church, the more ornamental one of St. Paul’s and the distant top of the Catholic Cathedral & The cluster of trees observed on the shore in front of the City are on the Battery place once fortified, but now the principal public square; and Castle Clinton just west of it, is a place of amusement. We landed just above the Battery ground at about 6 of the clock and were almost like lost sheep, but steered our course for Broadway. Took up that [31] street to Wall Street and down wall to the Exchange, an elegant building fronting Wall Street in which is the post office below and the steeple is used as an observatory from [which]they know the ships etc. From thence we came to Santines lodging house corner of Wall street and Water street where we lodged all night. This day travel 45 miles.

Corner of Broadway and Park Row, 1831.

Tuesday the 8th we rose at 1/2 past four and walked up the bay where the ship were numerous, the wharfs crowded with them [32] After breakfast went to the park on Broadway which contains the City Hall a splendid building of marble excepting a part of the lower story which is sandstone & back part also. In this building they hold their courts & city police and all the public offices. It is in length I suppose 300 feet, on the west side of this building is the jail for thieves called Bridwell & the debtors prison on the east. The New York institution is behind the city hall, in which is the American Museum & nearly oposite in Broadway is [____?____]. [33] After which we went to various places, amongst them we saw an ox which was raised in New England state weight 4000 and a small cow which could easily creep under him about 2 feet high raised in Pennsylvania and a moose, a ram with 4 horns. In the evening went into Castle Garden which was splendidly illuminated with gas lights, it is oposite the battery ground. Wednesday the ninth rose at 1/2 past four and took a walk, after which we took breakfast on rice milk and soda crackers. After breakfast we crossed the East river [34] to Brooklin containing about 9000 inhabitants. It is oposite to New York on the [____?____] of Long Island, as place of considerable business and is said to be improving. The navy yard is situated a little N. W. from this place. There are two large buildings wherein they build vessels [I] suppose 250 feet in length at least together with a number of other buildings for warehouses and also to store their timber for the building of ships and a middle sized house which I supposed to be a [35] dwelling house on a high bank in front of which is a fine and extensive garden. I suppose for the use of the navy people and another fine building where the centry and others are in. They were fitting off a ship which was to leave in a few weeks. The navy yard I suppose contains about 6 acres of ground–After returning to the ferry I met with Mr. Henning formerly from Harrisburg but now resides in Ithica in this state, who I was [36] pleased to see as he was the only acquaintance I saw since we left Philadelphia. He accompanied us over the river in the steam boat, and on to Broadway where we separated, he to his boarding house and we to ours. In the afternoon C. H. Bauman and I crossed to Jersey City oposite New York, on the Hudson river. A small place containing perhaps 200 inhabitants.

City Hall, c. 1826.

On Thursday 10th we had intended leaving the city for Albany but hearing of Mr. Halsted on the corner of Wall and Broad street a celebrated man [37] for curing the dyspepsia. John was determined to have a conversation with him, and found him to understand something of the disease and therefore agreed to be a patient. After which we agreed to move our place of lodging & victualing and therefore made choice of Mrs. Thompson in. Liberty street No. 23 between Nausa [Nassau] and Williams street. Friday the 11th we had our shoes mended and prominaded through the city more or less and in the afternoon we cross the Hudson river oposite barclay’s street, a delightful [38] and beautiful place. The village is small called Hoboken. The buildings chiefly frame and weatherboarded, painted white. The most attracting and pleasant part is an extensive green yard all planted with trees and shrubery, in which there is a splendid tavern by appearance, and on the bank of the river there is a kind of railway fixed, and thereon a kind of pleasuring carryall. When that is started at one end it runs to the other and back. From this yard we stepped into a similar one only that it [39] was narrow and fence only on one side. The walk is a considerable distance up the river and gravelled the whole way, beautifully shaded with a variety of trees, cedar etc. We walked I suppose one mile and did not get to the end. It is very much visited by the city folk during the summer. This is where they take their country promenades.

The Battery and Castle Garden, 1833.

The 12th in the morning after rising we went to see the arcade, a splendid building in Maiden lane and extends in depth to St. Johns street, in front about ______ feet, depth about 220 feet [40] contains a variety of stores but do not the same business as might be expected particularly above stairs scarcely any done. After seeing this building we again went to Dr. Halsted’s the dyspeptic physician, after leaving him we again returned to our lodging and Mr. Gilbert a son of the lady with whom we boarded he was kind enough to go with us and show their engine which we found to be an elegant one. The cost in the first place was [41] between 9 & 10 hundred dollars and the extra repairs done by the company $300–After having examined it we went up Bowery street about 2 miles till we came to the reservoir which is a kind of a circular tower. The lower part is a solid body of stone wall with excepting of a small aperture of about 5 feet in diameter in the centre where the water is to be forced up by engine power and the upper part which is to contain the water is made from iron plates [41] completely riveted together that no water can get out. The diameter of the whole works are I suppose 45 feet and the height of the stone part suppose 60 feet and the iron part 20–After having viewed this we came on to our lodgings in time for tea for which we were pretty well prepared to eat at least I.

Sunday the 13th we rose at 5 of the clock the day appeared cloudy and very much for rain, We took a walk for exercise to the wharf and returned in time for breakfast. After which we agreed [43] to go to church and it appeared that our choice among the numerous sects was the Babtist church situated in Nassau street, a handsome but rather small building. When we came to the door, there was a young gentleman who showed a seat, he is there for that purpose. The pulpet is somewhat rigged off like other churches, in front of which is there Baptistry in which were 4 persons Baptised, 2 men & 2 women. Oposite to the pulpet in the gallery is an elegant organ, and as the Minister said I baptise you in the name of the Father [44] and of the Son & of the Holy Ghost he immersed the person once in the water, and immediately after they played on the organ (praise ye the Lord) and so with each subject. And in the evening we went to the Methodist Church, which is in St. John street between Nassau & Williams street. This is a large building an reasonably plane. The house was crowded to my astonishment. I suppose there must have been 3000 persons in it, besides those who could not get in. On Mondy the 14th rose before 6 of the clock [44] and Christian and I walked down to the wharf, and saw the ship Great Briton which brought the 280 germans in a few weeks ago. After which we returned & took breakfast and rested as usual. This day saw nothing of any importance. In the evening we saw the steamboat Clinton for Albany start. She was very much crowded or rather loaded with passengers. This evening is cloudy looks very much for rain.

Tuesday the 15th we rose at five in the morning the day clear and beautiful, warm an sultry. [45] At 9 of the clack we went to Fulton street wharf and took the steamboat Flushing, Captain Peck the owner, for Flushing. This excursion afforded a view of the most interesting parts of the East river (at least so was stated to us) and we found it delightful and pleasant. After leaving Brooklin on Long Island behind we came to Williamsburg a considerable village on Long Island oposite the upper part of the City containing ________ inhabitants. A little above the Newtown Creek empties [46] into the east river and immediately oposite is the fever hospital a large building about 150 feet in front and about 300 yards above is the alms house. An extensive building I suppose by appearance perhaps 300 feet in front where all the paupers are kept. In passing along up the banks present a beautiful aspect. The buildings are elegant and chiefly occupied by persons in the City, who move their families out in the summer and in the winter have persons [pages 48 & 49 are blank in the manuscript; 50] to take care of them.

Next about 3 miles above the city is Blackwell’s Island about 1/4 miles in length & 600 feet in width. The new penetentiary for the City is erected on the insulated spot, which offers many advantages for such an institution as this. It is said to be founded on solid rock, about 20 feet above high water mark. The building is 200 feet in length by 50 in breadth, contains 240 cells, each 3 by 7 feet, and separated by partition 21/2 feet thick. Oposite each cell there is an apeture in the outer wall which affords [51] light enough for each cell. Adjoining this building on the upper side they are erecting another on a similar plan, only longer, for females. Next above is Hell Gate, where numerous objects present themselves on entering Flushing Bay. On the east side on the hill a white blockhouse and just below close by the water is an old fort which was once fortified. The surface of the river is broken by several rocks and by the agitation of the water, particularly called the Great Pot, a little [52] north of the fort, and the rapid current on the opposite shore known by the name of Hogs Back and on the left side of the river is Manhattan Island on which is a place called Harlem. Just above is Ward’s Island where we stopped and left a man on shore. A short distance on another island is a man living having 3000 thousand acres of land and only one cow. The island he lives on is small perhaps 150 acres. Next place we came to is Flushing on Long Island a small but beautiful [town] situated on a kind of eminence containing about ______ inhabitants. [53]

Prince’s Linnaean Garden belonging to Mr. Prince. This garden is one of the most extensive and beautiful I have ever seen and will supply persons with all kinds of seeds, plants, flower, and trees & grapes of all descriptions. It was first established about the middle of the last century by the Grandfather of this Mr. Prince–The 4 hot houses contain 20,000 plants in pots; and the garden is said to cover at least 30 acres–After having viewed it to our satisfaction we returned to the steamboat and left at 3 of the clock & arrived before 5. The [54] travel going and coming is 18 miles after which we returned to our boarding house and as usual attended to ourselves. In the evening while setting before the door I had the pleasure of seeing a small baloon ascend which was the first I have ever seen–

On Wednesday the 16th we rose at 5 of the clock, after the most restful night that I had since we left home with dreaming etc–We left at about 6 in the morning and went to the mouth of Warren street to bathe in salt water a place particularly [55] intended for that purpose. They have a large plunging place together with about 20 private places and two shower baths one of which I took and find myself considerably better. We then came and took breakfast after which I wrote this. The day we spent as usual without seeing anything more of any importance. This day walking about 6 miles.

The North America.

On Thursday the 17th we rose at 1/2 past 4 in the morning urged for breakfast which we got then came to Barclays stret wharf where we took the steamboat [56] North America Captain [____?____] Benson for Albany left at 1/4 past 7 of the clock. Left New York behind just above Weehawken village the duelling ground, under a ledge of rock near the river is where Alexander [?] Hamilton was killed by Burr. On the east side is fort Ganevort about 7 miles above is on the right forts Washington and Independence at some distance apart and on the left Fort Lee. Along the eastern bank the land is not very strong but fine situations on the banks of the river, rather [57] romantic. Just below the forts commences a remarkable range of mountains called the Palisades, a perpendicular range of mountains extending from Hoboken to Tappan village. Five miles above on the right is Yonkers, a small village. Seven miles above at some distance from the river is the grave of Major Andrew but his remains have been taken to Europe. Just above is Tappan and on the opposite side Tarrytown where Andrew was taken by the three men. Just above [58] is Sparta and opposite on the west is Nyack & just above on the east side is Singsing. 30 miles above New York there are a great many small villages along this river which I wont mention, be refer to the map which will give satisfaction–The state prison at Singsing is a quadrangle of nearly 44 by 480 feet. It is hard to believe a double stack of cells built back to back, 4 tiers high and 200 on each tier, in all 800. It was built by the convicts themselves. Stony Point six miles above is worthy of note, it is a kind of [59] a promontory on the east side of the river and was fortified during the war. Wayne lost it in 1778 but regained it the same year. Verplanck’s Point on the opposite side was also the site of a fort but there is a fine building on it and the rock and arbour in front make a fine appearance–About 8 miles above also on the west side is Fort Clinton & Mongomery–and about 7 miles farther is West Point (which is 55 miles from N. Y.) This was a military position of great consequence in the war–This is [60] where the Military Academy of the United States is situated and I suppose they could not have found a better and more romantic one–This academy was founded in 1802 by Gen Williams and extends only to the instructions of cadets. The number of students is 750–it is built above the level of the water 188 feet. The expense for the U. S. is per year $115,000, each student pays $330 per annum–here are 5 large buildings all of stone, and on the bank an old fort is Kosciusko’s Monument, and back of the village and [61] academy is the ruins of fort Putnam, elevated about 598 feet above the level of the river–

The Catskill Mountain House.

Just above on the east side is Anthony’s Nose, which I consider a strong representation of the best part of the face particularly the nose and chin. 6 miles above is Newburg on the west a considerable place I suppose 3000 inhabitants. About 1/2 mile south of it is where Washington had his head quarters, when the Newburg letters came out. Opposite this is Fishkill where Matteawan [62] factory is situated. This gives employment to 300 persons with 50 looms & 1,000 or 1,500 yard of cotton made out of the wool particularly stripes and gingham per day–From this place there is a fine sloping bank along the river. The country appears rather hilly, soil sandy and midling, then all the way from N. York–15 miles above this is Poukeepsie situated on a considerable bank and some distance from the river say 1/2 mile. This is a place of some note [63] population ________

The steamboat touched at Caldwell, West Point, Newburg, Poukeepsie, Rinebeck, upper landing of Redhook, City of Hudson, Coxsakie. The Katskill Mountains are west of Katskill on the round top of which is 3,718 feet above the ocean–and the house on this mountain–is situated 3000 feet above the Hudson. This place is said to be greatly visited. Albany about 30 miles above Hudson City is situated on the west bank of the Hudson River said to [64] contain 25000 inhabitants. Arrived here in the evening. The wharf was crowded with people and as we passed asked us whether we were for the west. Came to the Eagle tavern asked how much per day $1.25. We then went where we got it for 75 cts per day. This days travel 145.

The Old Capitol.

On Friday the 18th we rose at 5 and walked to the capitol of the state a handsome but small building of a kind of sandstone excepting the pillars which is marble and the floor below is also [65] marble. The police office, legislative hall & senate chamber & court room are small and planely furnished off. From the cupala of this building we had a fine view of the city & United States Barracks some little distance S.E. and also could see into the state of Massachusetts and Vermont and could see the green mountains east from this. After which we returned to our lodging for breakfast and wrote the foregoing, then went to the boats to see for a passage to Schenectady.

To be continued.